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GIMME SHELTER- Retro green: Making a '70s gem energy savvy

published May 8, 2008


Alec Cargile
Lithic Construction

PHOTO COURTESY ALEC CARGILE
Q: I'm thinking of buying one of those simple, "modern," open-floor-plan houses built in the early 1970s. Unfortunately, it was built when gas was 50¢/gallon, and it's about as energy efficient as a chicken coop-- big single-pane windows, high ceilings with no attic space, thin layers of old fiberglass insulation. Is there a way I can upgrade the house to make it more energy efficient without completely breaking the bank?

A: Installing new weather stripping on your windows and doors is an inexpensive first step, but if you really want to make the house more energy efficient, you'll have to accept some financial sacrifice. There are a lot of variables to work with, so it's important first to know how much you have to spend. To reduce costs, it's best to avoid any extensive renovations.

Where you can get to your existing insulation-- crawl spaces, attics, etc.-- you'll want to replace the fiberglass insulation with some kind of spray foam insulation. Back in the '70s, people with little or no training usually installed the fiberglass insulation, and given that builders and home buyers weren't as concerned with energy efficiency back then, there wasn't the same attention to detail. Unfortunately, if you have fiberglass insulation in your walls, you're going to be stuck with that unless you opt to tear them out. Recently we put spray foam insulation in the attic and crawl spaces of an older house, and it made a dramatic difference in terms of energy efficiency.  

Windows are a huge point of heat and cooling loss, so investing in storm windows is a good idea. You'll also want to replace those big single-pane windows with double-insulated glass. This can be expensive, but you get what you pay for, as the energy loss from single-pane windows is also huge. 

If you don't have an attic, you might want to think about stripping the roof, putting down foam board, and then re-roofing. That's not cheap either, and design-wise it can be difficult not to make your house look like it's wearing a bad sombrero, as it raises the roof about three inches. But there's a lot of energy lost through a poorly insulated roof. 

If you haven't blown your budget, you may also want to look at the mechanical systems. Is your duct work properly insulated? Are the connections tight? A poorly designed duct system can waste a lot of energy.

Finally, with high ceilings, you need to be able to mange air flow in the house, either by installing fans or calling in a pro to analyze how air flows. Air flow is important when it comes to using energy efficiently. 

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I speck many different types of insulation but think you lead this person in the wrong direction by jumping to the most expensive insulation on the market, spray foam. I would suggest either a high density spray fiberglass insulation that will get to an R-15 and tighten the envelope or cellulose that will get an R-13 and also tighten the envelope. Either of these two options are much less expensive than spray foam and the cost difference between my two options and spray foam can get the homeowner into a new piece of mechanical equipment either heating or cooling. Spray foam is great for people I work with in Aspen who have unlimited income but this homeowner specifically asked about not breaking the bank.

These other two options are environmental friendly with cellulose at 75% recycled product and fiberglass at 50% recycled product. Most foams I work with can only use 20% bio-oils such as soy to maintain their structure.

Mark

Truely Architectural

posted by Mark at 5/8/2008 4:53:08 PM
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