Taste of China: The hottest ticket in town
Happy diners, some of whom waited an hour for a table–- in a town where any wait is unusual–- savor the joy of getting served at Taste of China on Friday, March 12. Even though the Hook's Dave McNair tried to announce back in November that Peter Chang was a celebrated Szechuan chef quietly practicing his craft next to Li'l Dino subs at Albemarle Square Shopping Center, it took a March 1 "Annals of Gastronomy" story by the New Yorker's Calvin Trillin to break open the floodgates. Curiously, he still offers that goofy standard Chinese menu found at literally thousands of chop suey huts (for those terrified of his highly spiced cuisine). On a reporter's recent visit, he saw the overworked owner handing off the telephone to customers to handle the incoming inquiries, but the funniest part is what everyone who takes a queue ticket was told: "20 minutes."
–last updated 11:51am Tuesday, March 16